Monday, January 7, 2013

Christmas in the Arctic!

Christmas 2012 will always be a very memorable one for my family. 

On December 23rd at about 6pm we were booked on an overnight train to Kiruna, Sweden. The trip already started out a little rough when the train was about 1/2 hour late and once we boarded discovered that some of the bathrooms (including the ones next to our cabin) were non-operational due to frozen pipes!

However, we did not let that get us down. You should have seen Jaxon's face when we boarded the train. He was so excited. I think he felt like he was on the Hogwarts Express. It was nice for our family that we had the entire cabin to ourselves. I don't think it would have been as relaxing if we had to share it with strangers.






There were two benches that faced each other in the cabin. When it was time for bed the bench folded down along with some other beds that folded down from the walls. So we each had our own bed. The train company provided blankets and pillows. We brought a few snacks and a little water but there was also a food cart on the train where we could purchase some food as well.

Here is a photo of a reindeer wrap that we tried. 


It was really nice and relaxing to sit in the cabin and just hang out and read. We befriended a fellow passenger in the cabin next to us and he translated the information that came over the loudspeaker.
I especially enjoyed watching out the window at the beautiful landscape. It felt like the Polar Express! 


Sleeping on the train was not too bad. I think Ashtyn had the hardest time. The next day (Monday, Christmas Eve) we made a stop at a town called "Murjek". It was nice to get out, stretch our legs a bit, and buy some more food for our family. Here is a photo of Darby, Melynn and I which at this point was the furthest north we have ever been. I think we were about 30 miles south of the Arctic from here. We were all bundled up. I had on a snow skirt on over my jeans. My new favorite article of clothing!

When we got back on the train. We headed north again but for only a few miles. The train was having weather related mechanical problems and they were worried that it would not reach its final destination. Also, there were no populated areas from here on out so if we were to get stranded, it would be unsafe. They decided to head back south to a town called Luleå. 

The conductor announced over the loudspeaker that they were going to be putting all the passengers up in a hotel and that they would announce the following day how they were going to transport us the rest of the way. The kids were very disappointed because we were supposed to be sleeping in the Ice Hotel that night but instead were stuck elsewhere! 


This is a picture of Darby, Aaron, Jaxon and Ashtyn as we were waiting for the bus to take us from the train stop to our hotel.


Christmas Eve in Luleå. Not what we had in mind!!!

We felt really bad for the hotel staff because they had shut down the whole place and everyone was at home with their families. They all had to be called in so that they could prepare rooms for us as well as open up the restaurant and prepare food for 260 people. I think this whole experience was worse for them than it was for us. However, we did appreciate a warm meal and clean sheets!

(Photo of Melynn and Jaxon at Luleå station, Christmas day)


The next morning they announced that we were taking the train back up. This came as good news because we were told the day before that we may have had to take busses and that would have taken a very long time! So we packed up again and headed to the train station 

We arrived in Kiruna about 3:30pm, Christmas day. That night we stayed at a hotel close to the train station. We could not believe that we were finally in the Arctic and it only took about 45 hours!!!

We checked into the hotel and then walked around to see what could possibly be open for dinner. Thankfully we found a hamburger stand that was open not too far from us. We were not quite sure we wanted hamburgers so we continued to walk but then soon realized it was that or food from the gas station. Darby and Jaxon opted for the hot dogs at the gas station :) The rest of us ate hamburgers!

This night we had booked a dog sled tour with a local company. They picked us up at 6pm from our hotel. Then they drove us outside the city area about 15 minutes away.

They took us to their place of operation. We went inside a room that was filled with extra boots, gloves and snow suits so we could add on some extra layers. Keep in mind that I already had on my thermal underwear, running pants, loose running pants and snow pants....in that order....on the bottom! On top I had on thermal underwear, a fleece lined second layer, a fleece sweatshirt and then my ski jacket. Do you think that I needed a snow suit on too? YOU BETCHA! The weather was -40 degrees!!!

Did you know that when you reach -40 that Fahrenheit and Celsius are the same???

We got suited up and headed for the dogs! It was so funny to watch the man in charge as he got the dogs out of the cages. You could tell that all of the dogs wanted to be picked! As soon as they saw him and saw the sled, they were jumping and howling as if to say...pick me, pick me! We only needed 10 and there were a lot more in the cages.

As soon as all of the dogs were tethered in we started off. And I am talking right away! The guide yelled something at the dogs and it was like going from 0-60 in 3 seconds. They could not wait to get going. It was so fun to watch them run ahead of us. You knew that they were just so happy!

The guide had informed us that it was an especially cold night so we may not be able to go as far as usual. After one second on the sled I was not going to protest. I was COLD! 

During the ride, Jaxon was invited to come stand up by the guide and yell to the dogs a command. He yelled out what sounded like "G!" and all the dogs turned toward the right. Jaxon was thrilled!




Afterwards, we helped put away the dogs and then headed into a small hut for some hot chocolate and cake. Melynn's hands and feet were especially cold so Aaron and the guide were trying to help her get warm again by the fire. We sat and thawed out for at least 45 minutes. In fact, as I am writing this blog, I still have three toes that are still numb!!!



Two photos of Jaxon with the lead dog.



The next morning Jaxon got sick. He was throwing up! I don't think it had anything to do with the dog sled tour but could have had something to do with being on a train for so long with lots of other people. 

The girls were glad that they were staying in another room together so that they could keep their distance. I stayed in the room with Jaxon while he rested. Aaron left to rent us a car. 

We checked out of our hotel and then checked into the Ice Hotel that afternoon. Because of the train  problems we had had to rearrange our reservations with them. Originally we had reserved space for all 6 of us in the Ice rooms, but changing to another day meant that there was only space now for 4 people in the Ice rooms and then two of us had to stay in a regular room. This ended up being better because Jaxon was still not feeling well so he and I hung out in the regular room the rest of the day and over night. Aaron and the girls on the other hand were able to explore around the hotel and then went on a snowmobile tour. I was just glad that at least their plans were not ruined. I was perfectly happy to read my book in a warm room :)

Here are some photos of Aaron and the girls snowmobiling.



The Ice Hotel issued us snow gear to help keep the family extra warm.


After the snowmobiling, Aaron and the girls came by to check on Jaxon and I and then they went off to bed. Here are some pictures to show you what that was like. They loved it!


The Ice Hotel stays at a cool -5 Celsius (23 F.)

The next day was our last day of the trip and my favorite day. Jaxon was feeling better and we were finally able to see for ourselves this awesome hotel. 


It was so fun to walk around and explore the different rooms. Here is a glimpse of what it is like...


When you come in there is a welcome area (above) before you go down the long hallway which branches out to other hallways. 



There are many rooms. Some are more plain in construction while other (upgraded) rooms have ice sculptures in them done by many different artists.



and my personal favorite is the flower room...


photo above is taken on the pews in their chapel.

front of the Ice Hotel



After we checked out of the hotel we headed for the town to walk around and explore before heading to the airport. 


Last place we visited was an old church that was built in 1912.




This trip certainly had its bumps but in the end it was well worth it!

Friday, January 4, 2013

Christmas time in Sweden!

There are so many wonderful Swedish traditions around Christmas time! It is so much fun to be here and witness all the unique customs. Some things may be Scandanavian and others generally European and some for just this area, but this is what I have learned...and please keep in mind that this is probably just a portion of it, I learn new things every day.

These are some of the popular holiday drinks- Julmust and Glögg. Julmust tastes like a flat Dr. Pepper (sort of). Glögg (pronounced like glug) tastes like a cider. It is common to drink the Glögg along with raisins and nuts in your cup. Then you scoop those out with a spoon.





Another very popular item sold in every single store is "Pepparkakor". 
The best gingerbread cookies by far! They come in many shapes. 
Stars and heart shapes are common.

Swedish custom says that you can place a Pepparkakor in your hand and make a wish. 
Using your thumb or index finger, tap the cookie in the middle. 
If the cookie breaks into 3 pieces then your wish will come true!


Don't be fooled, the items below are not for Valentine's Day. Some Christmas decor can 
look more like something for Valentines...but it's not.



It is very common for a Swede to have certain things in their home at this time of year.
Stars are hung up by the windows.


(the photo above is of a light shop that sells stars)

These are some of the stars hanging in my living room!



You will also see plenty of these candle trees in almost every window.

"Jultomten", a Christmas Elf. "Jul" means Christmas and "Tomten" means elf. In Sweden there is now a blend of the old traditional Jultomten with the American/German Santa Claus. So these two figures are somewhat used interchangeably.


The straw goat is a centuries-old Scandinavian Yule symbol that preceded Santa Claus as the bringer of gifts to Swedish homes. Many Swedes place a small straw goat underneath their Christmas trees, or hang miniature versions on the branches.

Below is a picture of my tree, decorations courtesy of Ikea!


These are in all the bakeries....the Marsipangris. 
This is marzipan shaped like a pig. It is a symbol of good luck.


The buns below are known as "Lussebullar". They are named after St. Lucia Day...
see below for more info.


"Spettakaka" are also in all the stores but probably more popular in southern Sweden 
where they originate. I personally did not really care for the taste.


I am including this photo (below) of my friend Michelle and I because it shows the 
cutely decorated candy shop behind us all ready for the holidays.


These are my advent candles. The first advent happens the first Sunday of December. That is when you light the first candle. On second advent you light the first and second candle. On third advent you light the first three candles and so on. "Advent" means waiting. Waiting for the birth of Jesus Christ. 

Photo below shows my advent candles on my dining table. 


St. Lucia Day is December 13th. This is the official kick-off day to the Christmas 
season and the day associated with the Italian martyr. 

The following is courtesy of another website to help explain it...
The celebration comes from stories that were told by Monks who first brought Christianity to Sweden.
St Lucia was a young Christian girl who was martyred, killed for her faith, in 304AD. The most common story told about St Lucia is that she would secretly bring food to the persecuted Christians in Rome, who lived in hiding in the catacombs under the city. She would wear candles on her head so she had both her hands free to carry things. Lucy means 'light' so this is a very appropriate name.
December 13th was also the Winter Solstice, the shortest day of the year, in the old 'Julian' Calendar and a pagan festival of lights in Sweden was turned into St. Lucia's Day.
St. Lucia's Day is now celebrated by a girl dressing in a white dress with a red sash round her waist and a crown of candles on her head. Small children use electric candles but from about 12 years old, real candles are used!
The crown is made of Lingonberry branches which are evergreen and symbolise new life in winter. Schools normally have their own St. Lucia's and some town and villages also choose a girl to play St. Lucia in a procession where carols are sung.
A national Lucia is also chosen. Lucias also visit hospitals and old people's homes singing a song about St Lucia and handing out 'Pepparkakor', ginger snap biscuits.
Small children sometimes like dressing up as Lucia (with the help of their parents!). Also boys might dress up as 'Stjärngossar' (star boys) and girls might be 'tärnor' (like Lucia but without the candles).
A popular food eaten at St. Lucia's day are 'Lussekatts', St Lucia's day buns flavoured with saffron and dotted with raisins which are eaten for breakfast.

The photo below was taken during the St. Lucia celebration for the students at my 
kids school.  It was held at the church across the street.

Christmas Eve is Swedens biggest day. 

The day may begin with "Risgrynsgröt" which means rice porridge. You would put an Almond in the porridge before being served, the unmarried daughter who got the Almond in her serving would be likely to be married during the next year (similar to catching the bride’s bouquet).

 Historically, most Swedish people were farmers and it is told that a little house elf (hustomte) was living on every farm to help the farmer with the animals and keeping the farm safe (like Dobby from Harry Potter). The night before Christmas it was crucial that you would place a bowl of Risgrynsgröt with a dollop of butter in it for the house elf. Failure to do so would result in the house elf causing all sorts of mischief on the farm and release the animals.

On Christmas Eve at 3pm the excitement begins with Donald Duck hour or what is known as "Kalle Anka"!!! Yes, that is right!!! Everyone in Sweden sits down to watch an hour of Disney cartoons. Many years ago this was the only day Swedes could get cartoons on TV and then the tradition stuck. Once that is over then dinner can soon begin. "Julbörd" is what they call this Christmas smorgasbord. It is a meat lovers paradise! The meal will certainly consist of some of the following...herring, salmon, salami, ham, meatballs, sausages, ribs, and then you will also have potatoes, hard boiled eggs, brussel sprouts, bread followed by coffee, chocolates and pepperkakor. Rice pudding will usually be served as well unless it was served that morning for breakfast. Photo below is off the internet. 

After the feast, "Jultomten" or Christmas Santa (could be a neighbor/friend in disguise) comes to bring presents to the children. It is on this night that the gifts are all opened.


January 13th is the day known as "Julgransplundring" or Christmas plundering. This is the day everyone takes down their tree and all their decorations...but first they have to plunder the tree which means they find all the hidden candies that are stored in them and gobble them down.

God Jul och Gott Nytt År!
Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!